Solid vs Engineered Hardwood: Which Should You Install?

Choosing between solid and engineered hardwood affects more than aesthetics—it determines where you can install hardwood, which installation methods work, and how long your floors will last. Both deliver authentic wood beauty, but their construction differences create distinct advantages for different situations. This guide helps you choose the right option for your Western North Carolina home.

Understanding the Construction Difference

Solid Hardwood consists of a single piece of wood, typically milled to 3/4-inch thickness. Each board is exactly what it appears—solid wood from top to bottom. This construction has served homes well for centuries, offering the ability to sand and refinish multiple times over a 100+ year lifespan.

Engineered Hardwood features a real hardwood veneer (the wear layer) bonded to multiple core layers. These core layers stack with grain running perpendicular to each other—similar to plywood construction. This cross-ply design creates dimensional stability that solid wood cannot match.

From the surface, both look identical. You’re walking on real hardwood either way. The differences become relevant when you consider where and how the flooring will be installed.

Installation Flexibility: The Major Difference

Installation options represent the most significant practical difference between solid and engineered hardwood.

Solid Hardwood Installation Requirements: Solid hardwood can only be nail-down or staple-down installed, requiring a wood subfloor (plywood or OSB). It cannot be installed directly over concrete under any circumstances. The NWFA (National Wood Flooring Association) prohibits solid hardwood installation in basements or below-grade spaces due to moisture concerns. These limitations mean solid hardwood works best for above-grade installations over traditional wood-framed floors.

Engineered Hardwood Installation Options: Engineered hardwood accepts all installation methods—nail-down, staple-down, glue-down, or floating. It can be installed over concrete, wood subfloors, or even existing hard flooring. This versatility makes engineered the only real wood option for basements, concrete slab foundations, and radiant heat systems.

Installation Scenario	Solid Hardwood	Engineered Hardwood
Over plywood subfloor	Yes – Preferred	Yes
Directly over concrete	No – Not Possible	Yes – Glue or Float
Basement installation	No – Prohibited	Yes – Recommended
Over radiant heat	Limited – High Risk	Yes – Recommended
Wide plank (6″+)	Challenging – Stability Issues	Yes – Ideal Choice

 

Dimensional Stability and Climate Performance

Western North Carolina’s dramatic humidity swings—humid summers and dry winter heating seasons—make dimensional stability particularly important.

Solid hardwood expands and contracts significantly with humidity changes. This movement appears as seasonal gapping in winter (when boards shrink) and tighter joints in summer (when boards expand). Proper installation includes expansion gaps to accommodate this movement, but extreme conditions can still cause cupping, crowning, or buckling.

Engineered hardwood’s cross-ply construction dramatically reduces dimensional movement. The perpendicular grain layers restrict expansion and contraction, keeping boards more stable through humidity fluctuations. This stability advantage becomes especially important for wide plank products—solid hardwood wider than 5 inches struggles with stability, while engineered can go much wider without issues.

For our mountain climate, engineered hardwood often performs more predictably long-term, particularly in homes without whole-house humidity control.

Lifespan and Refinishing Potential

Both solid and engineered hardwood can last generations—but with different refinishing capabilities.

Solid Hardwood: Standard 3/4-inch solid hardwood can be sanded and refinished 4-6 times over its lifespan, potentially lasting 100+ years. Each refinishing removes approximately 1/32 inch of wood, and you need at least 1/4 inch remaining above the tongue for structural integrity. This extraordinary longevity represents solid hardwood’s greatest advantage.

Engineered Hardwood: Refinishing capability depends entirely on wear layer thickness—the real hardwood veneer on top. Budget products with 0.6-1mm wear layers cannot be sanded at all (recoat only), lasting 15-25 years. Products with 2mm wear layers allow 1-2 light refinishes for 30-40 year lifespans. Premium engineered with 4mm+ wear layers can be refinished 3-5 times, lasting 50-100 years.

When comparing lifespan, quality matters more than construction type. Premium engineered hardwood with substantial wear layers approaches solid hardwood longevity while offering superior dimensional stability and installation flexibility.

Cost Comparison

Material costs have converged significantly—engineered hardwood no longer offers substantial savings over solid when comparing equivalent quality.

Budget engineered products with thin wear layers cost $3-$6 per square foot but limited refinishing potential affects long-term value. Mid-range engineered with 2-3mm wear layers runs $6-$10 per square foot. Premium engineered with 4mm+ wear layers costs $10-$16 per square foot—comparable to quality solid hardwood.

Solid hardwood materials range from $5-$15 per square foot for domestic species, with exotic options reaching $20-$30.

However, total installed cost may favor engineered in certain situations. Over concrete subfloors, solid hardwood requires installing plywood first—adding $2-$5 per square foot to the project. Engineered can go directly over properly prepared concrete.

Which Should You Choose?

Choose Solid Hardwood When: You have wood subfloors throughout, want maximum refinishing potential, prefer floors with a 100+ year lifespan, are installing in above-grade spaces only, and can maintain relatively stable indoor humidity (30-50% year-round).

Choose Engineered Hardwood When: You’re installing over concrete subfloors, want hardwood in a basement, have radiant heat systems, prefer wide plank (6″+) aesthetics, live in a home with significant humidity variations, or want real hardwood where solid isn’t possible.

Consider Both for Whole-Home Projects: Many Asheville and Hendersonville homes benefit from a combination approach—solid hardwood on main levels over traditional subfloors, engineered in basements or over the concrete slab of an addition. Our design consultants help you determine the best approach for each area of your home.

Quality Indicators to Watch

Whether you choose solid or engineered, quality indicators matter more than construction type.

For Solid Hardwood: Look for clear grading with minimal knots unless you prefer character marks. Proper moisture content (6-9% for our region) indicates well-dried lumber. Reputable manufacturers like Shaw, Somerset, and Bruce maintain consistent quality standards.

For Engineered Hardwood: Wear layer thickness determines refinishing potential—request specifications in millimeters. Core construction matters: Baltic birch or high-quality plywood cores outperform HDF (high-density fiberboard) in moisture resistance. Total thickness of 1/2 inch or more provides better stability and feel underfoot.

At Leicester Flooring, we stock both solid and engineered options from manufacturers we trust. Our team will help you evaluate quality factors and choose products that deliver lasting value for your specific installation conditions.

Make the Right Choice for Your Home

The solid vs. engineered decision comes down to your specific situation—subfloor type, installation location, and long-term expectations. Neither option is universally “better”—both deliver authentic hardwood beauty when properly selected and installed.

Visit our Asheville or Hendersonville showroom to see solid and engineered options side by side. Our design consultants will evaluate your home’s conditions and recommend the best approach for each space. With the right product choice and professional installation, your new hardwood floors will perform beautifully for generations.